92 pts - Vinous
Red-ruby. Aromas of blackberry liqueur. Sweet, warm and simple, with rather rustic flavors of currant jam and leather. "The most Australian cuvee," notes Clape. A mix of 30-year-old hillside vines and old vines from the foot of the hill: Deep ruby-red. Exotic blackberry, black olive, pepper and spices on the nose. Big, broad and rich, with a deep, chocolatey flavor. Chewy, large-scaled and obviously high in alcohol (in fact, this is 15. 3%), but not at all flat. Superb for the vintage. From 50-year-old hillside vines stressed by drought: Full ruby-red. High-pitched aromas of blueberry and blackberry liqueur, licorice and dark chocolate. Rich, fat and powerful, with superripe chocolate and fruitcake flavors. Warm finish features substantial but ripe tannins. This was the ripest lot, at 15. 5%. From very old vines, mostly in Reynard: Ruby-red. Liqueur-like aromas of redcurrant, black cherry, blackberry, leather, smoke and olive, with a hint of spun sugar. Tightly wound and less sweet than the last couple of samples. Conveys an impression of stronger acidity, even if the analysis says otherwise. But Clape notes that the alcohol here is just 14%. Not at all in the thick, sweet style of so many 2003s. In fact, this seems a tad hollow, as if the ripening process was interrupted. Finishes with substantial, slightly tough tannins. This cuvee includes the fruit from vines purchased from Noel Verset, which always ripen later and give fresher wine. The ultimate blend will merit a score at the high end of my projected range if it ultimately has the aromatic nuance and verve to match its massive constitution. ST