1983 Gruaud Larose - St Julien (750ml)

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(64% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot): Bright medium red with an amber edge. Archetypal mature Gruaud-Larose aromas of truffle, smoked beef, earth, cedar, and tobacco complicate red cherry on the expressive. Fresh and juicy in the mouth, with a graceful quality to the red cherry, spicecake, orange rind and aromatic herb flavors. The finish is bright, long and clean, showing subtle underbrush notes at the back. I have always felt the 1983 Gruaud to be a success but bottles I've had in the past have been marked by gamey, animal aromas and dry, earthy flavors. Not this time: I've never had a better bottle of Gruaud-Larose from this vintage.- Ian D'Agata (4/213)

This dark garnet-colored, unctuous, rather viscous, deep wine has reached full maturity. The 1983 Gruaud-Larose exhibits a provocative nose of roasted herbs, animal fat, jammy blackberries, licorice, and cedar. It is a big, fat, juicy, and succulent wine, with sweet tannin in the finish. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted, 9/97. RP